Beretta.net Forum

I have never heard of that problem before. Berreta GT, with the electronic dash... Speedometer and Trip Meter work fine....after next oil change, I'm going to write down all trip mileage (via fuel stop reset), and compare to odometer. If odometer is consistently 3X higher, I'll just let it be. Than...

95BerettaBase wrote:I haven't been able to hold onto vehicles very good since, I've went through 3 vehicles since last year.

How about a redblock Volvo?

Selden Cooper's 1 Million Mile Journey

They are all interchangeable. A 3t40 is a 3t40, period. http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m289/mitchythekid_2006/Technical%20Tidbits/1985_125_a_3.jpg http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m289/mitchythekid_2006/Technical%20Tidbits/1985_125_b_2.jpg http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m289/mitchythekid_...

Trivial, but the odometer is running 3x faster than actual miles. Speedometer and Trip Meter work fine, along with mpg.

A local GM mechanic indicated to get another unit....I think I'll find a hour meter to keep track of engine run hours.

woody90gtz wrote:7730 ECMs

I've never looked at one, but on ECMs that can be opened up, sometimes its the capacitors that fail...replace them, VaRoom

makes me think I'd be check wiring schematics, and confirming power is where its suppose to be. Relay controls fuel pump....there's a test connector for priming fuel pump under the hood, on driver's side...on earlier Berettas. No fuel, no go...is there fuel pressure in the rail? Fuel pump relay sho...

so it will just bump the letters around.... Each time they play the "freight game," my "deep pockets" get lighter....so, I refuse to play. I lockin on one warehouse, and will buy different product if required to have all products in one warehouse...if they switch the main produc...

These cars have heavy doors, and its only natural that after a few years of use they fail and cause the doors to sag. Good write up...those door hinges were designed poorly. I found a pair on ebay. Also, GM had a recall notice, if you complained, years ago, to just replace them on 1987 and 1988 yea...

Awesome THANKS! Yes, there are some good prices...but they play the "warehouse" game. The other night, I wanted an item, that "moved" from warehouse B to C...depending upon cart's content. So, I said the heck with it. If I can get items from same warehouse...that works for me......

Anyone seen a complete strut assembly being sold these days? With spring, Dust boot, Strut Mount, Bearing, etc?

Just looking for the cheap stuff?

thanks

gtuturbo wrote:
Date: SEPT., 1988
Subject: ELECTRONIC CLUSTER (U52) REPAIR

Model and Year: 1987-88 BERETTA, CORSICA WITH U52 OPTION
TO: ALL CHEVROLET DEALERS

Still have a copy of this?

just wondering.......be nice to look down and say....."thats exactly how much gas i have!" Find this post in this thread: http://www.beretta.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=399&start=15 Date: SEPT., 1988 Subject: ELECTRONIC CLUSTER (U52) REPAIR Model and Year: 1987-88 BERETTA, CORSI...

N-body brake swap I own a 1984 244 Volvo, and serveral years ago, I plugged the hydrovac unit's vacuum line since hydrovac was defective and sucking vacuum off. Yes, to lockup brakes now requires a pinch more "manpower," but I like it just fine; and being the only driver, it works for me....

Koots wrote:hydroboost unit,

Putting an over-sized hydrovac unit in will bring about a serious braking issue...one light touch on brake pad may lockup brakes.

My brother and I did it years ago...from like a Blazer to a smaller S-10 vehicle...wrong, wrong, wrong.

I hope its not the injectors. GM had some bad designs years ago...YMMV. But, I've read somewhere, one needs to run some chemical/cleaner in them before they set for long period of time. Fuel Varnish, just Google it, it takes out injectors and carburetors. Myself, I put some 15,000 to 20,000 miles a...